Kāmākhyā is an amazing tīrtha (pilgrimage place). It’s not a place for the faint of heart to visit, though. It is the tantric epicenter for Goddess worship, so animal sacrifices are an everyday occurrence. That being said, there are plenty of vegetarian options on menus in the area, the people are extremely kind and generous, and the temples… well, they hold immense spiritual opportunities for those who approach them properly.

It had been 14 years since I last visited Kāmākhyā. This time, I stayed at the…